The Chunky Knit

A/W 2018 really promises to show fashion’s softer side. Wool, mohair and cashmere were all seen making their way down the runway in a variety of oversized forms. Yarn thickness, elaborate intarsias and proportions were played around with and whether a slouchy cable knit cardigan or large argyle knit jumper, the theme was clear - grandad knitwear, please.

Erdem came up with the most romantic narrative inspired by Adele Astair’s fictional marriage to the Duke of Devonshire. The fashion designer became captivated by the idea of the 1920s dancer living in Lismore Castle and tramping across the moors, cocooned in hunting tweeds and sequin-spangled capes. Looks included a deep yellow, floral-patterned, silk cocktail dress, draped with a soft, rich brown cardigan and cinched by a leather belt. A slim fit Fair Isle jumper, with feather grey sleeves and stark white collar burgeoning from its earthy hues, set over a beaded skirt and accessorized with sheer socks tipped with maroon stitching.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi similarly paired shimmer with patterned knitwear, albeit with a more fragmented approach of mismatched segments of Fair Isle knit, pieced together and allowed to trail from the seams. The collection also had a number of playful details with the inclusion of fun fur, metal-threaded overskirts and crocheted pom pom bags. Meanwhile, at Christopher Kane, it was more grandad punk but with a similar scattering of jeweled embellishments, set on a landscape of muted, dusky knits.

For my take on the grandad knit I opted for this khaki-coloured jumper from & Other Stories. The oversized fit is played up by the voluminous and intricately woven sleeves and the wool is a coarse, thick yarn. I especially liked that the colour gives a nod to the associations with the military and the act of knitting itself being a critical part of wartime thrift.

The styling of this garment is incredibly basic and I actually want to style it again at some point as although I was setting out to create a simple look, there wasn’t enough intrigue in what I paired it with. Merely swapping out the footwear for a chunky trainer or even something as minimal as adding a barrette hair clip would have ensured it still remained basic but could have elevated the look a bit more.

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